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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the family completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.